Feeling lost in this city of 100 spires, my memories vague, pale pre-pixelated images pass quickly, I grasp a few. My first view is the wide Vlata river and the Charles Bridge, its postcard symbol. The hourly apparition of the twelve apostles; the steep climb to the highnest hill, my aerie; the synagogue where Kafka's Golem resides; in the sunlight, the Cathedral reveals the translucent colors of stained glass; at night, opaque and dark. The streets, silent, all doors, locked. Not long ago, in the spring of 1968, young men and women gathered here, with hope for freedom. ..